Korgalzhyn Reserve: A Kazakh sanctuary where flamingos nest

Entered in the UNESCO World Heritage List, the Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve in northern Kazakhstan covers over 5,000 square kilometres and is unique on a global scale. Steppes and salt lakes provide homes for 365 species of birds and many unique species of mammals and plants.

The Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve was the first natural site in Central Asia to be inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008. Together with the Naurzum Nature Reserve, it forms part of a biosphere reserve called Saryarka—Steppes and Lakes of Northern Kazakhstan.

Access to the reserve is not open at will or for drive-throughs. You must apply (preferably in advance) to the office in the village of Korgalzhyn, 130 kilometres southwest of the Kazakhstan capital, Astana. The number of tourists and the frequency of their admission to the reserve are strictly regulated—visitors are allowed in only twice a week.

Due to the reserve's size, it is toured by car - only a few cars are allowed on the appointed days. A paid guide (modest fee) is mandatory in each car, who sets the route - knows where to move without the risk of getting stuck and where the best chance of seeing unique fauna and flora species is. Guides also supply observation equipment (telescopes and binoculars), if the visitors do not have their own.

Drastically limiting the number of tourists is dictated by the fact that when there were more of them, some birds - like pink flamingos - were disturbed and did not settle for nesting - says guide Gulmira. As she adds, these birds come here to breed, which takes place in the salt lake Tengiz (about three times larger than Lake Constance).

The whole reserve has several salt lakes, rich in food for the pink flamingos. We observe the flamingos on one of the smaller lakes - they are about 300 metres away, so telescopes are useful. You can also encounter large birds like cranes, several species of herons, pelicans, hawks, steppe eagles, Montagu's harriers, and a few other birds of prey. Among the smaller birds, the black lark is present.

It is impossible to get into the reserve unnoticed or illegally. Access is mainly hindered by nature itself, and where it is possible to enter by road, guard posts are stationed. The guards closer to Korgalzhyn work shifts of three days, those at more distant points—seven days. The size of the reserve is larger than half of the Opole Voivodeship.

Among the several dozen species of mammals found in the reserve, marmots and steppe polecats are noteworthy. Among the flora, endemic wild tulips, which blanket the steppe as far as the horizon, stand out.

- You're in luck. They only bloom for 10-12 days a year, and in three days, they will be gone - says the guide. She adds that the reserve was created when she was already an adult. - When I was little, I was not aware of the uniqueness of these areas. We were told that flamingos were red geese - she says, amused.

After the tour, which lasts several dozen minutes, you can visit the museum and watch a DVD movie in three languages discussing the reserve's natural values. The international non-governmental organization Eurasia Foundation of Central Asia co-financed its production and advertising brochures.