Turkey seeks EU protection for döner kebab; Germany resists
Turkey demands that döner kebab be granted protected status in the European Union (EU). Germany opposes this, arguing that "various methods of preparing this dish should be preserved" as it reflects the diversity of the country. The European Commission has until 24 September to make a decision on this matter.
The website euronews.com reports that if the EC finds that 11 objections to the application are valid, Germany and Turkey will have six months to reach a compromise.
Turkey wants to protect döner kebab
In April 2024, Turkey submitted a request to protect döner kebab under the status of "guaranteed traditional speciality."
This offers less protection than the "protected designation of origin" status, which applies to products specific to a geographic region, such as champagne from the region of the same name in France. Despite this, it could impact kebab shop owners, their recipes, and customers in Germany.
"Döner" is a traditional meat product prepared by skewering thinly and horizontally sliced pieces of beef, lamb, or chicken horizontally on a stainless steel skewer, called a "Döner", and then cooking them by rotating the skewer vertically around its axis before a fire," reads the Turkish application.
According to the proposal, the beef for döner kebab would need to come from cattle at least 16 months old. It should be marinated in specified amounts of animal fat, yogurt or milk, onions, salt, and thyme, as well as black, red, and white peppers.
The final product should be sliced from the vertical skewer into pieces 1/10th to 1/5th of an inch thick. "The term 'Döner' refers to the traditional cooking technique, not to a geographical area," argues Turkey.
The word "döner" comes from the Turkish verb "dönmek", meaning "to rotate." The meat is grilled for many hours on a skewer and sliced when it becomes crispy and brown.
This dish was originally prepared with lamb in Turkey and sold exclusively on plates. In the 1970s, Turkish immigrants in Berlin decided to serve it in pita and modified the recipe to attract Berliners.
Germany opposes Turkey's idea
"We have taken note of the application from Turkey with some astonishment," acknowledges the Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture in a statement to the Associated Press.
The ministry argues that "kebab is part of Germany." It emphasizes that the variety of preparation methods reflects the diversity of our country and that this must be preserved. "In the interests of the many fans in Germany, we are committed to ensuring that the doner kebab can remain as it is prepared and eaten here."
If the EC agrees with Turkey's application, popular kebabs with vegetables, turkey, and some veal kebabs in Germany will not be allowed. The problem is that the application does not mention them, and this will cause confusion in the German food industry.
"The kebab belongs to Germany. Everyone should be allowed to decide how it is prepared and eaten here. There's no need for guidelines from Ankara," wrote Cem Özdemir, the German Federal Minister of Food and Agriculture, who has Turkish roots, on the social platform X.
According to the Berlin Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe, this industry generates annual sales of approximately £2 billion in Germany alone and £3 billion throughout Europe.
"From the government to the streets, everyone is eating döner kebab," admitted Deniz Buchholz, owner of Kebap With Attitude, who is not worried about possible restrictions.
"We will go the Berlin way and we'll find a solution to name it different," he said, like calling it a 'veggie sandwich'".
Prices of kebabs in Germany are rising
Kebabs have recently made headlines due to price increases. In the last few months, the prices of kebabs in Germany have doubled. You had to pay £3.50 not long ago, and now the prices reach £6 to £9.
Due to the kebab price surge in Germany, there has even been a suggestion to introduce a maximum price. The far-left party Die Linke demanded this move, but German Chancellor Olaf Scholz refused.
