Old Polish gingerbread: Traditional treat you must start now

The name "piernik" comes from the word "pierny," which means peppery or spicy. Its taste and aroma are due to the addition of spices, including pepper. Originally known as "miodownik," after spices were added, it became gingerbread. Reportedly, this wasn’t intended, and the spices made their way into the dough by accident. As time has shown, it was a very tasty mistake. Preparing the dough for Old Polish gingerbread marks the start of Christmas preparations in many homes. The dough needs several weeks to mature and fully develop its characteristic aroma and taste. In some families, the tradition of making mature Old Polish gingerbread has been passed down through generations, from preparing the dough to baking and decorating. Very often, small gingerbread cookies are hung on the Christmas tree.

If you look for information on matured gingerbread, you might come across the ancient cookbook of Apicius (Marcus Gavius), "De re coquinaria libri decem." One of the 10 volumes includes a recipe for matured gingerbread, or rather, its predecessor, "miodownik." However, a more similar version was popularised by medieval Benedictines. They believed that gingerbread, containing numerous warming and antibacterial spices, was an excellent remedy for infections and colds.

Very quickly, gingerbread cakes and biscuits captivated the taste of the wealthiest. Over time, as spices became less expensive, gingerbread pastries started reaching less affluent people. By the 19th century, gingerbread became a traditional Christmas cake. But how is gingerbread linked to Polish cuisine? Although it is commonly known that the capital of gingerbread is Toruń, the trend of Polish gingerbread didn't start there. In the 15th century, in Gdańsk and then in Wrocław, the baking of this unique cake began. However, Toruń embraced it so much that the city, with countless gingerbread workshops, gained fame not only in Poland. To this day, spiced gingerbreads are probably the main attraction of Toruń, which is home to the Gingerbread Museum, a real treasure trove of gingerbread knowledge. Interestingly, the first mention of gingerbread from Toruń dates back to around 1380 and mentions Mikołaj Czanie, a baker who also made these treats.

Such a special cake must be tied to special customs. One of them involved preparing gingerbread dough at the christening of a daughter. Reportedly, such dough matured until marriage, and only then did it become an aromatic, honey cake served at the wedding. Recipes for matured gingerbread were closely guarded secrets, passed down through generations. In many countries, gingerbreads are popular gifts. They are given to special people, one is fond of, respects, or appreciates. The shapes in which gingerbreads are baked often refer to tradition, local legends, symbols, or religious holidays. Christmas market stalls are filled with gingerbreads in various shapes and decorations.

This dough was a remedy available in pharmacies. It was prescribed for the medicinal properties of its spices. It was served as an addition to drinks, as the proverb goes: He who doesn't drink spirits, nor runs from it, is not worthy of tasting sweet gingerbread. Due to its high price, it was long a symbol of wealth. Small, hard gingerbreads were decorated in many, often inedible ways. Such decorated gingerbreads were used as wall adornments in visible spots. Containing honey and numerous spices that acted as preservatives, gingerbreads could be stored for a long time, thus serving as a kind of military hardtack.

Making matured gingerbread on your own is not difficult. Anyone can bake matured Old Polish gingerbread. It can be made as small biscuits, gingerbread slabs covered in chocolate glaze, a simple cake filled with fruit preserves, or even a cake. The secret to successful baking is preparing the dough for matured gingerbread well in advance. Of course, a good recipe is essential.

The easiest way is to buy a ready-made mix, but special occasions are worth investing a bit more time. Mid-November is the perfect time to make the dough, which should age for at least 2 weeks. However, it’s best after about 5-6 weeks. Below is a recipe for matured Old Polish gingerbread with fruit preserves. The proportions are for a tin sized 40 x 25 cm.

Ingredients:

• 500g of natural honey,
• 300g of sugar,
• 3 eggs,
• 250g of butter,
• 1kg of wheat flour,
• 3 teaspoons of baking soda,
• 125ml of milk,
• ½ teaspoon of fine salt,
• 3 heaping tablespoons of gingerbread spice,
• plum preserves or blackcurrant jam for layering – optional.

 Preparation:

1. Place honey, butter, and sugar in a pot and heat gently while stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from heat when it begins to boil and allow it to cool.
2. Add the baking soda and gingerbread spice to the milk and mix. Sift the flour into a bowl, pour in the warm (not hot) mixture of honey, butter, and sugar, as well as the milk with soda and spices, salt, and eggs.
3. Knead into a smooth dough or use a mixer. It should be quite loose. Transfer it to a glass bowl or enamel pot, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator for 4 weeks.
4. The dough is suitable for baking after about 2 weeks but is best after 4, or even 6 weeks. During maturation, it will firm up and won’t be as loose as it was initially.
5. On the day of baking Old Polish gingerbread, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it warm to room temperature for several hours.
6. Divide the warmed dough into 3 parts and roll each to about 0.5 cm thick. The dough may stick to the countertop, so lightly flour it.
7. Line a baking tray with parchment paper or grease and flour it. Gently lay the rolled dough into the form, using a rolling pin if necessary. Bake at 170 degrees Celsius (about 340 degrees Fahrenheit) for about 15 minutes.
8. After baking, allow it to cool completely, then spread fruit preserves or jam on it and cover with the second, then third gingerbread layer.
9. Cover the cake with parchment paper and place a cutting board or another object evenly distributing weight on top. Store in the refrigerator for a few days. Before serving, cover with chocolate glaze or dust with icing sugar.