Mock turtle soup: From luxury delicacy to ethical debate

Turtle soup, also known as "mock turtle soup," has a rich history dating back to the 18th century. At that time, turtle meat, especially green turtle, was considered a delicacy and often graced the tables of the aristocracy in Great Britain and the United States. However, making authentic turtle soup required significant financial resources and access to fresh turtle meat, making it available only to the wealthiest.

As turtle soup became more popular in the 19th century, cheaper and more accessible alternatives to turtle meat began to be sought. This led to the creation of "mock turtle soup," in which turtle meat was replaced with offal, calf heads, or calf trotters.

Although turtle soup is now associated with exoticism and luxury, in its "mock" version, it was a common dish that enjoyed decades of popularity. Thanks to a simple recipe, we can recreate the taste of this forgotten dish and feel like we are at an elegant party from 100 years ago.

Ingredients:

• 4 veal tongues,
• ½ calf head,
• 2 litres of water,
• 2 carrots,
• 1 celery stick,
• 1 onion,
• 3 bay leaves,
• 3 whole allspice berries,
• 1 tablespoon of butter,
• 1 tablespoon of flour,
• 3 tablespoons of sweet red wine,
• salt and pepper to taste,
• nutmeg,
• juice of 1 lemon.

Preparation:

1. Thoroughly wash the tongues and calf head, and boil in water with carrots, celery, onion, bay leaves, and allspice for about 2 hours.
2. Remove the meat, peel and cut into cubes. Melt the butter in a pot, add the flour, and make a light roux.
3. Gradually add the strained broth, stirring to avoid lumps.
4. Add the diced meat, red wine, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
5. Simmer on low heat for 15 minutes, and serve with croutons or bread.

Once considered a symbol of luxury and refinement, turtle soup now raises many controversies. The main concern is the protection of turtles, which are endangered species in many regions of the world. Hunting green turtles, a key ingredient in the original soup, contributed to a drastic decline in their population. As a result, many countries have enacted strict regulations banning turtle hunting and the trade in their meat.

In most countries, including Europe and the United States, making turtle soup from turtle meat is illegal. These regulations aim to protect marine and land species that have been overexploited.

In regions like the Cayman Islands or Belize, where green turtles were a traditional food source, some communities still prepare the soup, often under special permits. In these places, turtles are also farmed, allowing for limited consumption of their meat.