Iconic French Camembert at risk: Industry laments surge of faux cheeses and diminishing profits

Blue mold cheeses have a centuries-long history and are undeniably linked with the country well-known for them, France. Cheeses like Brie, Roquefort, Bleu de Bresse, and Camembert symbolize the rich tradition of French cheesemaking. Today, however, there are signs that this legacy is under siege. Let's delve into what has transpired in the homeland of Moliere, Napoleon, and Camembert cheese.

Camembert is a curd cheese made from cow's milk. The original recipe traces back to the 18th century and is significant to the French. Thus, the entitlement to use this name has only been granted to a select few— a few hundred manufacturers situated along the Loire. These manufacturers must strictly adhere to established standards and production conditions.

The traditional Camembert blue mold cheese is made using a singular strain of fungus: Penicillium camemberti. This process involves a combination of evening and morning cow milking milk, and the total fat content must not exceed 45 percent. These stringent standards seem to be rigorous and financially burdensome; for some producers, they prove to be excessively costly.

Firstly, producers of traditional Camembert have been contending with the issue of dwindling profits for years. The surge of faux cheeses on the market—cheeses failing to meet the rigorous stipulations mentioned—has significantly contributed to this problem. Secondly, and more concerning, the industrial production of Camembert is reported to have adversely impacted the strain of blue mold fungi vital for the cheese-making process. While 'imitators' can easily substitute the strain with another species, no traditional French cheese maker would ideally prefer to do this!