Election cake revival: The sweet spirit of democracy
The recipe for traditional election cake, which has its origins in the 18th century, is enjoying a resurgence in popularity in the United States. This bake was once linked with elections as a way to draw voters to the polls and today it stands as a symbol of democracy.
5 November 2024 10:02
Election cake first appeared in 1796 in Amelia Simmons's cookbook American Cookery. According to the original recipe, it was a yeasty, buttery cake made with half a quart of wine and two quarts of brandy. Its preparation spanned several days and retained its freshness for several weeks, which was crucial when election results took a long time to be revealed.
The recipe published by the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) states that flour, yeast, sugar, spices, and dried fruits soaked in whisky are the basic ingredients of election cake.
The tradition of baking this cake originated in Connecticut, where it was first made in 1771 for Election Day celebrations. In the 19th century, it was particularly popular in Hartford, the capital of Connecticut. Some cakes weighed as much as 12 pounds.
According to the American Historical Association, election cake offered women a sense of participation in democracy, even though, at that time, only white, land-owning men were eligible to vote. By selling cakes on election day, women encouraged citizens to vote. The cake's popularity waned at the beginning of the 20th century as suffragettes started publicly demanding voting rights for women, which were granted in 1920.
The "Make America Cake Again" campaign
In 1988, "The New York Times" conducted an investigation that delved into the history of election cake. It was compared to the Italian panettone and the Russian Easter babka. Modern recipes vary, with some describing it as a gingerbread-type cake sold at polling places in New Hampshire and others as a sponge cake.
During the 2016 presidential election, the subject of election cake resurfaced, thanks to the "Make America Cake Again" campaign. This campaign directly referenced Donald Trump's slogan, "Make America Great Again." A group of pastry chefs and bakers aimed to encourage citizens to participate in voting through this initiative. According to Bon Appétit magazine, this campaign played a role in rekindling interest in this traditional bake.
Before the 2020 elections, American media revisited the recipe. The culinary website Eater published a modern version, highlighting that while it may not impact the election results, you can control your cake consumption. In this manner, election cake became a symbol of engagement in the campaigns of both Democrat Kamala Harris and Republican Donald Trump.