Dua Lipa sparks Balkan feud over beloved ajvar pepper paste

Almost every nation in the Balkans claims ajvar as its own, and the dispute over its origin will probably never be resolved. The taste of roasted pepper paste, however, is less controversial. In this case, almost everyone agrees that it is hard to find a more delicious addition to dishes or even simple sandwiches...

"What would be the last delicacy you would like to taste before dying?" – a journalist asked the famous singer Dua Lipa a few years ago. "Ajvar" – the star answered without hesitation, and later explained that she meant the pepper paste originating from Albania. The popular singer was born in London, but her parents emigrated in the 1990s from Albanian Kosovo.

Dua Lipa does not forget the homeland of her ancestors, but this time she caused great controversy. The show featured a jar of "Leskovački Ajvar," a famous product from… Serbia, which has long been in conflict with Kosovo. The Serbs assert that ajvar is their national specialty, just like the residents of North Macedonia or Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Where is the truth? It will probably never be definitively resolved, the lively discussions about ajvar will not end, and it will continue to be consumed in vast quantities in the Balkans (the Serbs alone produce nearly 635,000 tonnes of paste annually).

The secret to the product's popularity lies in its taste and aroma, but also its simplicity in preparation. According to traditionalists, "real" ajvar should consist of just four ingredients: red pepper, olive oil or sunflower oil, salt, and wine vinegar. However, in practice, depending on where it is made, it is enriched with other additions, most often aubergine (which appeared in a 19th-century recipe published in "The Great Serbian Cookbook" by Katarina Popović), and sometimes tomato, green pepper, chilli pepper, onion, or carrot. Occasionally, sugar is added instead of vinegar.

Ajvar is a very versatile product. It tastes great added to roasted or grilled meats. You can spread it on a sandwich with cold cuts or use it as a ketchup substitute, e.g., for hot dogs. When heated, it becomes an excellent sauce for pasta. We can serve it with an omelette or risotto.

Ajvar is not only tasty but also healthy, thanks to its vegetable ingredients, especially the pepper, which is a treasure trove of vitamin C. This strong antioxidant strengthens the immune system.

The vegetable also provides many carotenoids, especially beta-carotene—a potent antioxidant that converts to vitamin A in the body. It helps to prevent vision problems (such as night blindness, cataracts, and macular degeneration), protect against cancer and cardiovascular diseases, and maintain healthy skin.

Another valuable ingredient in ajvar is aubergine, which was once called the love pear because it was considered a very effective aphrodisiac. The first mentions of cultivating these vegetables come from China in the 5th century BC, although it is suspected that they were consumed even earlier in Asia. Aubergine is 90% water, but the rest consists of very valuable vitamins, minerals, and other organic compounds, including anthocyanins, which are responsible for its characteristic purple colour and have anti-cancer and antioxidant properties.

Preparing ajvar is not complicated. The most challenging part is properly roasting the peppers, which should be fresh and fleshy; in the Balkans, the Red Bull Horn variety is usually used. Wash five medium-sized peppers, dry them, place them on a baking tray, and then preheat the oven to 220°C. They should be turned regularly to ensure even roasting. However, remember that only the skin should blacken, not the flesh.

After roasting, transfer the peppers to a plastic bag that you seal tightly. The steam created inside will make them easier to peel later. Once cooled, peel the peppers and remove the seeds. Place them in a mesh bag, then hang it over a container so that the peppers can drain overnight.

The next day, chop them finely, place them in a pot and pour sunflower oil (60 millilitres) over them. While constantly stirring, bring to a boil, then reduce the temperature and simmer over low heat, stirring very often. Ajvar is ready when the liquid evaporates, and a thick paste remains. Finally, add white wine vinegar or apple vinegar (a tablespoon) and season with salt.

Fill sterilised jars with the hot ajvar and pasteurise them in the oven at around 130°C or use a water bath for around 30 minutes.